Citadel miniature paint has great coverage. This really pays off when painting armor.
Painting Armor on Miniatures
This dwarf's armor and axehead
show the use of metallic paints with a wash applied.
Armor
is a special case to paint if you want it to appear as medevial
armor, which was often made of metal that tended to corrode.
The best method that I have seen is to paint it with a black
base coat of paint. To this you will drybrush silver onto
it. This gives a nice look of armor that has corroded with
some of the metal shining through. Drybrush more heavily on
those areas where the light would reflect off the armor more
to add highlights.
For
newer, shinier armor, paint the armor solid in the color of
the metal (bronze, iron, etc.) mixed with black. About 3 parts
metallic paint to 1 part black should do nicely. Then wash
with black to highlight the cracks. When this has dried, drybrush
with the original color (no black added) of the metal. Finally,
drbrush lightly with the pure metal color with white added.
This last step should be done very lightly with care taken
to ensure that most of the paint has been rubbed off onto
a paper towel before beginning to drybrush. This is just a
final highlight to depict light shining off the armor.
For
chainmail, first mix up some black paint with 1 part water
per three parts paint. This makes a thinned paint somewhere
between full coverage and a wash. Paint this over all areas
with chainmail on them. It should settle into the cracks like
a wash, but it will dry with an intense black in the cracks
of the chainmail. Mix up some gunmetal (black + silver 1:1)
or a dark version of whatever metal that you are using (mithril:
black + silver + blue). Drybrush this over the chainmail to
make the high points of the mail B stand out. Then use the
pure metallic color (no black added) to drybrush, doing so
more lighly and applying less paint than before. Finally add
the pure metallic and white about 1:1 and very lightly drybrush
the armor in the areas that will be most exposed to the background
light, namely the shoulders, some on the chest, etc. Mainly
the light will be most intense the higher up on the figure
that you go. Just picture rays of light coming from directly
overhead to see where the light shines on it at the closest
to perpendicular angles as it strikes the chainmail. Drybrushing
for chainmail should be done with downward stokes, which will
make the highlights emphasized on the bits of the mail that
reflect the most light.
You
can get the effect of different metals by drybrushing with
other metallic colors. Gold mixed with brown will give a bronze
or brass look. Black mixed with silver will give an iron or
gunmetal look. Blue and silver mixed give a blued steel look,
or the classic color of mithril in fantasy works. Red added
to silver can give neat effects for metal as well. All of
these combinations can be used as a base color as well, washing
with ink over them for a good effect. For swords you will
want to paint the sword with the base color that you want,
one of the metallic combinations above perhaps, then wash
with black and drybrush with gold or silver, depending on
which was the base metallic color.
Shields
can be done much the way that swords are. You may want to
add symbols of heraldry to the shield. Simple ones might be
a harlequin design, half one color, half another, leaving
a border of the original metallic color. One can get elaborate
and paint designs or dragons, etc on it as well. You can get
as elaborate as your artistic talent will take you. Some hobby
stores sell lift off decals, like the ones used on model airplanes,
that you can use for shield designs. Some are available at
hobby stores that carry model airplane supplies as decals
for model airplanes. You might find just what you want and
aviod painting intricate designs by hand.
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